Glossario di Famiglia

A short list of words and phrases that come up more than once in this book, in case context alone doesn't do the job. Cookware gets its own translation every time it appears, right there in the recipe that needs it -- this list is for everything else.


Agrodolce -- Sweet and sour, the balance a good caponata is built entirely around.

All'onda -- “Like a wave.” A properly finished risotto should move this way when the pot is tilted -- loose, not stiff.

Biga -- A pre-fermented starter, mixed the night before and left to ferment slowly overnight, used to build flavor and structure into a dough the next day.

Chi ha tempo non aspetti tempo -- “Whoever has time should not wait for more of it.” A family proverb about not delaying what can be done now -- except, by my mother's own admission, where dough is concerned.

Ecco -- “Here,” or “there it is.” Usually said the moment before someone points out exactly the mistake you just made.

Forza! -- Loosely, “come on,” or “let's go.” Something shouted across a kitchen far more often than it is ever calmly said.

Il piccolo -- “The little one.” What everyone in this family still calls Alessandro, regardless of his actual age.

Mantecatura -- The final step of finishing a risotto, or a dish like tagliatelle Alfredo, off the heat: butter and cheese beaten in vigorously to build a glossy emulsion, rather than simply melted on top.

Quando Va Storto -- “When it goes wrong.” The section at the end of every recipe in this book that says so, honestly, rather than pretending it never does.

Salamoia -- A simple brine of water, olive oil, and salt, poured over focaccia dough just before it goes into the oven.

Soffritto -- The slow-cooked base of onion, carrot, and celery that begins nearly every sauce in this book, cooked gently enough that it never takes on color.

Una Storia dalla Sala -- “A story from the dining room.” The short pieces scattered through this book about the guests themselves -- the kind, the difficult, and everyone in between -- set apart from the recipes they sit beside.